Learn to sew gathers easily – a thorough guide

Whether you’re here because you’re about to sew gathers for the first time, or because you find yourself frustrated every time you do, this guide will give you some simple steps and lots of helpful tips! Knowing how to sew gathers easily is such a useful skill, as they are very common in clothing and home decor. Check out these adorable outfits I made for my girls, both of which make plenty use of gathering!

A word about thread

Before you even get started, you need to know that the thread you use matters. It always does, but especially with gathers. Cheap thread breaks easily, and there are a lot of people who dislike gathering just because they’re using the wrong thread! So make sure you’re using something decent (I really like Gutermann Mara for an all purpose thread). Make sure to wind your bobbin with it too.

If I have no pattern, how do I know how much longer the section I’m gathering should be than the section I’m attaching it to?

Gathers should be anywhere from 1.5 – 3 times longer than the section they’re being attached to. I like to use 1.5 for ruffle hems, and 2 for most skirts of dresses. I hardly ever use more than 2.5, but that would be very full!

Now that we’ve established that, we can get into the different methods. First I will be showing you the traditional method, which is actually my favorite, and then the zigzagging over floss method. I like both these methods because they are very precise (as opposed to using a ruffler foot or the serger to gather).

Method 1: How to sew gathers traditionally

Machine settings (traditional method)

Stitch length: You need to make your stitch length longer than normal. I almost always use the longest setting my machine has, which is a 5.

Needle tension: Lower your needle tension. This part really makes a difference in how easy it is to actually gather! Normal on my machine is a 4, and I usually do a 2. The thicker the fabric, the lower it should be. If your fabric is thin, it might start gathering as you’re sewing. You probably don’t want that, so then you could make the tension a little higher, such as a 3.

Sewing the gathering stitches (traditional method)

We are going to sew two rows of parallel stitching. They should be on either side of where your actual stitching line will be. I usually work with a seam allowance of 1/2 inch, so my gathering stitches would be at 3/8 and 5/8 inch. The rest of this tutorial will be based on a seam allowance of 1/2 inch, but if your pattern calls for something else, just adjust accordingly.

For most projects, you will want your fabric to be turned right side up. Position it at the machine so that you are first going to sew the narrow (3/8 inch) line. Before you sew, make sure that the tails of the thread are about 4 inches long and behind your work. Hold onto them for the first few stitches so that they don’t get tangled. Don’t backstitch at the beginning or end. Sew a nice straight line, and when you get to the end make sure to leave 4 inch tails again. Now go back to the start and sew your 5/8 inch line, making sure the tails from the other line are out of the way.

If you are gathering something quite large (like a large or very full skirt) you can sew from side seam to side seam on the front and then the back (or whatever makes sense for your project). That way you are working with sections that are half as long and they will be easier to gather.

By the way, these gathering stitches are also sometimes called ease stitches or basting stitches, but those are technically different applications.

Pinning and gathering (traditional method)

Take the section to be gathered and the section you will be attaching it to. You can either start pinning the pieces together (usually right sides together, matching notches and seams) before gathering, or you can gather first to the approximate length and then pin. Usually I gather it a little bit, then pin, then finish gathering.

Either way, to actually gather, you will be pulling on the bobbin threads, which will conveniently be on the wrong side and easy to access. And they will be easy to pull on because the top thread tension is loose and won’t have much of a grip on them! Pull both bobbin threads from one side evenly until the gathers reach the middle of the section, then pull from the other side. Use as many pins as you need to secure everything. Make sure that any seams match up perfectly, with the pins going directly through both seams where the stitching line will be. Otherwise the gathers can hide the seams and they can get way off!

Sewing the the seam (traditional method)

Make sure to put your machine settings back to normal!

Next is the easy part. Simply sew with your gathers facing up, using your 1/2 inch seam allowance, which will nicely be between your two lines of gathering stitches. Pull the bobbin threads gently to hold the gathers in place if they’re loose at the beginning and end.

If I’m sewing in a circle (like a skirt to a bodice), I will usually start just past the pin that is past where all my gathering tails are so that they’re not in the way while I’m backstitching.

Keep an eye on what’s happening with the piece underneath, to be sure no folds are getting sewn into the seam (especially important on curved sections like armholes).

Remove pins as you go, and I sometimes adjust the gathers a little if I notice something is uneven. I actually don’t remove the pins at the seams though. I just go over them very slowly, and then the seams are guaranteed to line up perfectly.

Finishing up (traditional method)

Check from the right side of your work that everything looks good. Then flip back to the wrong side and use a seam ripper to carefully cut the bobbin threads of the gathering stitches in the middle of the gathered section. Next, pull on the long tails slowly and they should come out quite easily. Then you can just pull away the thread that will be visible on the right side.

Finish your seams and iron the seam allowance away from the gathers, and you are all done!

One more thing about the traditional method

Another reason you really should learn this method is because it’s basically the same process as easing, which is where you ease in a larger section to a smaller section (like a sleeve cap into an armscye, or armhole opening)

Method 2: How to sew gathers using the zigzag over floss method

I will admit that this is not my favorite method, mostly because I find the one above easier after you get the hang of it. That said, I would use it for very thick or folded fabrics. And some people think it’s the absolute best!

Cut a piece of floss about 10 inches longer than the section you are gathering.

Machine settings (zigzag method)

Set your machine to a fairly wide zigzag stich (I do 6, 7 is longest on my machine). The shorter the stitch length, the tighter your gathers will be (I do 2). Just experiment with what you like.

Zigzagging (zigzag method)

Make sure you have a nice long tail of floss behind your work. You will need to hold it in place and zigzag over it. Make sure not to catch it with the needle. I zigzag inside of the seam allowance, so that it won’t be visible in the end. You will need some tension as you hold the floss in place, so make sure you’re not pulling the end of it out as you go! Backstitch at the beginning and end.

Pinning and gathering (zigzag method)

Pull on both ends of the floss. It really is easy to get the fabric to gather! Pin it to your other piece, matching notches and seams.

Sewing the seam (zigzag method)

Sew with the gathers facing up, using your left hand to control the gathers as you go.

Finishing up (zigzag method)

Pull the floss out, finish your seams, and iron the seam allowances away from the gathers. All done!

Have you tried either of these methods to sew gathers? Which do you like best, or which would you be most likely to try? Let me know in the comments below!

And if you’re looking for a project that involves sewing gathers, you could try this easy, free little girls tunic pattern!