How To Finish Bias Binding Ends: Two Ways

In this sewing tutorial, I will show you two ways to finish bias binding ends neatly for when you are sewing something round, like a neckline, armhole, or hem.

Two methods to finish bias binding ends: in the round and flat

I’m putting both of these methods together in one post, because you can use either one in most cases, based on your personal preference.

The first method will show how to finish bias binding ends in the round. The second is on a section that doesn’t have the final seam sewn yet, and is therefore flat.

Pros and cons of each method

• If you sew the bias binding in the round, the results will be beautifully smooth from the outside of the garment. But it can be a bit awkward to do.
• If you haven’t sewn the final seam yet, it will be a lot easier to sew. But there will be slightly more bulk and the garment won’t look quite as smooth from the outside.

Notes

If you’re wondering if there’s a difference between bias binding and bias tape, they are the same thing!

I have a blog post on how to make your own bias binding, and another post on how to sew the different kinds on clothing. This tutorial is specifically about how to finish the ends, so if you don’t yet know the basics of sewing bias binding, then I highly recommend you check out that post! Both posts also contain a handy printable guide for converting between metric and imperial sizes, as well as store bought and homemade bias binding.

You can use these methods for any of the kinds of bias binding: single fold, double fold, half fold/French method, and my method, which is what I will be doing in this tutorial. My method is basically single fold, but without the actual folds ironed in (lots more detail on this in the blog posts linked above!).

Supplies and materials

• Sewing machine
• Bias binding/tape, either store bought or homemade
• Woven fabric such as linen, quilting cotton, poplin, old sheets, etc
• Matching thread (I really like Gutermann Mara for an all purpose thread)
• Scissors
• Pins
• Iron and ironing board

How to finish bias binding ends in the round

Iron the end of the bias binding diagonally

First, iron the end of the bias binding about 1/4 inch to the wrong side, diagonally like this:

Sew the bias binding to the garment

Then, sew the bias binding to the section of clothing (in this case, an armhole), starting with the part that you just ironed a fold onto. I like to start somewhere on the back of the garment where the curves aren’t too extreme.

In the picture below, I’ve almost sewn the entire round and am getting back to where I started. Sew about 1/2 inch past where you started, lapping the end over the folded end that you started with.

Then, trim the end so that it’s the about the same diagonal angle as the other end.

This is what it will look like from the right side at this point. The folded end is on top, and that’s what will give us a nice clean finish when it gets turned to the inside of the garment.

Trim seam allowances and notch

Trim your seam allowance to 1/4 inch, and notch the curves where needed. The tighter the curve, the more notches are needed to let out the tension once it gets folded to the other side.

Understitch the seam allowance to the bias binding

Then you can understitch all around. This is not necessary but so recommended! It’s an extra step, but I’m convinced it actually saves time because it makes the next steps easier. I have a tutorial on how to sew an understitch here, if you don’t know how. If you don’t understitch, then iron the seam allowances toward the bias binding.

I usually have this little pointy bit of extra fabric underneath, which I just trim off to make it easier to fold under the top part.

Fold the bias binding and edge stitch

Now you can fold to the wrong side. Your raw end will become completely enclosed inside the bias binding. Pin if desired (I find the understitching usually makes pinning unnecessary). Edge stitch and you’re all done!

And that is what that diagonal fold will look like. Isn’t it so neat and pretty?

How to finish bias binding ends flat/without the final seam sewn

Sew the bias binding to the garment

If you’re doing this method on an armhole like I am, then sew the shoulder seams together and leave the side seams unsewn.

If you’re doing it on a neckline, sew the shoulder on one side only, and then you’ll sew the second shoulder later.

I actually don’t usually pin the bias binding in place at first, but this picture shows how you will be sewing it on.

So go ahead and sew it in place, simply working from one end to the other.

By the way, I have a tutorial on how to sew shirring (the stretchy gathering stitches on this dress), if you’d like to check it out!

Trim seam allowances and notch

Trim the seam allowances to 1/4 inch and notch where needed (again, the tighter the curve, the more notching will be needed). Also trim off the ends if they’re a bit longer than the side seams.

Understitch the seam allowance to the bias binding

Now you can understitch, if desired. Because we still need to sew the side seams, it’s important not to stop or start the understitching on the ends. So, start about 3/4 inch or so from the ends (about 1/4 inch more than your seam allowance).

This picture shows how the understitching started about 3/4 inch from the end.

Sew the side seams

Now you can sew the remaining seam. The only way this method looks good is if you get this part perfectly lined up, so take some care with this step!

Pin your side seams, placing pins exactly where the seams that connect the dress to the binding are. Check from the right side that you have them perfectly lined up. Then sew your side seams, carefully sewing over your pins where the seams are to make sure they stay perfect.

This is after sewing the side seam of this dress:

Fold the bias binding and edge stitch

You can then fold your bias binding to the inside and edgestitch. I did pin here, because this armhole had a whole lot going on, with shirring, a ruffle, and a built in shelf bra.

And this is what it looks like all finished!

And that’s how you finish bias binding ends!

Did you find this tutorial helpful? I hope you learned something new and that you’ll give it a try on your next sewing project!