This basic sewing tutorial will show you how to sew different kinds of bias binding onto clothing: single fold, double fold, half fold/French method, and the way I usually do it. If you don’t know how to make your own bias binding, be sure to check out my post here!
The Ultimate Bias Tape Guide
Bias binding can be confusing, and it can be cumbersome to always have to google the conversions for it, so I made this handy printable chart comparing imperial and metric sizes, the bias tape maker size if you want to use one, and the width to cut for making your own. I linked this guide in my post on how to make your own bias binding, but I thought it would be helpful to share here too. It’s for single and double fold bias binding/tape only, because the other methods I’m showing you how to use don’t have official sizes. You can grab a free printable version here!
Supplies and materials
- Sewing machine
- Bias binding/tape, either store bought or homemade
- Woven fabric such as linen, quilting cotton, poplin, old sheets, etc
- Matching thread (I really like Gutermann Mara for an all purpose thread)
- Scissors
- Pins
- Iron and ironing board
How to sew single fold bias binding
Step 1 – Sew right sides together, with raw edges lined up, stitching in the fold of the bias binding. It’s ok if the pattern didn’t state the seam allowance for this part. Just stitch in the fold and it will be very close to, if not exactly, what was intended.
Don’t pull or stretch either the main fabric or the bias binding. Work with the curves of the main fabric, adjusting as you go (lifting presser foot with needle down and adjusting fabric) so that you can keep the curves the way they naturally want to lay. I could have done a better job of this on this romper bottom, but because it was for elastic casing, I wasn’t as careful as I would have been for something else.
Step 2 – Trim and notch seam allowance if needed.
Step 3 – Understitching is optional and I find it eliminates the need for ironing before the next step. If it’s for a neckline, armhole, hem, etc, it’s definitely a good idea. I have a detailed post on how to sew understitching here, if you don’t know how to do it.
If it’s for elastic casing, like this romper bottom, I don’t understitch, because it adds some stiffness. In this case, I ironed the seam allowance toward the binding instead.
Step 4 – Turn bias binding to wrong side and edgestitch along folded edge. At this point, you can stretch the folded part of the binding a little if needed, to help it fit along the curves.
How to sew double fold bias binding
Double fold bias binding can be sewn on 3 ways:
Double fold bias binding method 1
(For this first method, I made my binding wider on the underside so that the next step will be easier. You can see the details of how to do that in the post I mentioned above on how to make your own bias binding.)
Step 1 – Sew right sides together, raw edges aligned, stitching in the fold.
Step 2 – Then wrap to the wrong side and sew from the right side, pinning if desired. You will be stitching “in the ditch,” (exactly between the main fabric and bias binding). Make sure to catch the underside!
Double fold bias binding method 2
Step 1 – Sew the right side of the binding to the wrong side of the garment, with raw edges aligned, stitching in the fold.
Step 2 – Wrap the binding around to the front and edgestitch.
Double fold bias binding method 3
Step 1 – The third way is to *simply* encase the raw edge inside the fold and top stitch, being sure to catch the underside. Sounds easy, right? Nope!
If you’re sewing something straight, like a quilt, I’m sure it’s easy. But if you’re sewing clothing with curves, it can be super frustrating, as it’s easy to miss the underside and just for things to get uneven. I did this sample with double fold that was wider on the underside, and it did help me not to miss anything. But you can see that on one part of the underside, the stitching is way too far from the edge. I wouldn’t doubt that that part would come out in the wash eventually. Maybe I just need to practice more!
How to sew half fold binding/French method
If you haven’t used the French method of bias binding before, you will probably love it! It’s so simple and always turns out great. The only con, in my opinion, is that it can get bulky on certain fabrics or if there are a lot layers at a seam.
Step 1 – Quick refresher on how to make: Cut a strip of bias: finished width x 2 + seam allowance x 2, and whatever length you need. Iron in half lengthwise and you’re done!
Step 2 – Line up raw edges, right sides together, and sew according to your seam allowance. Below you can see how I worked with the curve of the main fabric, not straightening it too much, and adjusting as I went by lifting the presser foot with needle down and rearranging the fabric.
Step 3 – Trim seam allowance to 1/4 inch and notch if needed. The tighter the curve, the more you will need to notch.
Step 4 – Understitching is optional, but helpful.
Step 5 – Then edgestitch the folded edge to the wrong side. At this point, it’s ok to stretch the binding a bit to fit the curves, if needed. And you’re done!
How to sew bias binding my way
This is basically just a less official version of single fold bias binding, but I find it easier.
Step 1 – Quick refresher on how to make: cut a strip of bias: finished width x 2 + seam allowance, and whatever length you need. (I always make mine 1 1/4 inch wide). No ironing needed!
Step 2 – Sew right sides together, according to seam allowance (1/2 inch for me). Again, make sure you work with the curves of the fabric and don’t stretch either piece.
Step 3 – Trim seam allowance to 1/4 inch and notch if needed.
Step 4 – Understitching is optional, but helpful. Because I understitch, I often don’t need to iron or pin at all (except a final press with the iron).
Step 5 – Then fold to the wrong side by finished width twice (always 3/8 inch for me), encasing raw edges of the seam allowance.
Step 6 – Edge stitch, stretching the binding a little to fit the curves if needed.
And that’s it for sewing bias binding!
I hope you found this guide helpful! I just wrote another binding post, showing how to finish bias binding ends, if you’d like to check it out. And be sure to let me know if you have any questions about these methods in the comments below 🙂
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