How to sew a basic, flowy maternity top without a pattern

I’ve been wanting a basic, flowy top with long sleeves for quite some time. It might be hard to believe I don’t have one, but I’m picky about fabric type and usually shopping on a budget. Now that I’m pregnant, I’ve been feeling the need even more. This style doesn’t have to be maternity, but that’s part of what I love about a flowy shirt: it works for regular wear or maternity while being really feminine and going with anything!

I decided to sew my own maternity top so that I could use some cotton/spandex jersey that I had. I was eyeing this beautiful Etsy pattern for some time, but seeing as we are on a tight budget right now, I decided to try copying (or “cloning”) a not-flowy top that I have and like. This was certainly an experiment, with a few adjustments needed here and there, but it turned out quite nicely, so I thought I would share my process for any ladies finding themselves in the same position. This how-to focuses mostly on the alteration for the bottom of the shirt and could be used for any style of sleeve or even a sleeveless top.

If you don’t sew yet, you can check out my post on everything you will need to get started here.

I will definitely be making a shirt like this again. I would love to find some fabric with a little more drape and maybe change the neck opening and do a curved hem. When I do, I’ll be sure to update this post!

Supplies and Materials

• 1.5 – 2 meters of jersey fabric, I used this one with 95% cotton / 5% spandex
• Matching thread
• Sewing machine
• Serger is not needed but a definite plus!
• Iron and ironing board
• Measuring tape
• Clips or pins (I highly recommend clips for this project. Pins can easily poke holes into jersey!)
• Stretch needles recommended, otherwise size 80/12 or smaller
• Paper – wrapping or packaging paper, or scrap paper taped together
• Pen, pencil, or marker for making the paper pattern

Notes

Seam allowance is 1/2 inch if you are using a serger, or 1/4 inch if you are using a regular sewing machine. More on sewing jersey without a serger in step 11!

Let’s get started!

First things first, wash and dry your fabric the same way that you will the shirt. This ensures you won’t have any shrinkage after you’re done and also gets rid of manufacturing chemicals that you don’t want to be touching. I didn’t bother ironing at this point because jersey doesn’t really get very wrinkly.

Making the maternity top pattern pieces

Step 1 – Choose the shirt you will copy. We will be making it longer and wider to accommodate for a growing bump. Try it on, taking note of how much length you want to add, how tight it is, and any design elements that you might want to change (like the collar, sleeve length, etc. Obviously we will be changing the bottom!)

Step 2 – Turn the shirt inside out and fold it in half. We will work on the body of the shirt first. My sleeves are really simple so I just left them out, but if you have a sleeve that attaches with a curve, tuck it inside the shirt. Lay it on top of your paper and line up the fold with the edge of the paper.

Now for the altering part!

Step 3 – Now, we’re going to decide how much width we want to add. My shirt is already pretty loose so I’m only going to add about 5 inches of width at the side, which will make for a total of 20 inches all around. If you’re shirt is tight, you could add more like 6 or 7. I just eyeballed it, but you can draw a straight line 5 inches out from the bottom of the side.

Step 4 – Next we will decide how much length we want to add and mark it. Measure the length of the side seam from the underarm to hem. Mine was 15 inches. I chose to add 3 inches (including hem allowance), so my new side seam length was 18 inches (this was actually way too much and I ended up trimming off 2 1/4 inches later, but better safe than sorry). The new side seam is going to be angled, so make an angled line going out to your 5 inches (either marked or just eyeballed), and make it the length you decided on. Make sure to start at the top 1/2 inch out from the side seam, for your seam allowance.

Step 5 – Mark around your collar, shoulder, and arm opening. Make sure to add a 1/2 inch seam allowance, except for the collar. The way I am doing the collar, it will basically sit in the same place as where you cut the neck opening. It just conveniently works out that way. But I forgot and added the seam allowance, so just ignore that part of the picture. Remove the shirt.

Making space for the chest and baby bump

Step 6 – Now we need to make a curved line to the center of the chest/edge of the paper. This will give us a reference for marking out the rest of the hem. First I made a straight line from the underarm to the fold. Then I marked 2 1/2 inches below that and drew a curve going up to the underarm (picture below step 6).

Step 7 – And next it’s time to mark the hem. Measure straight down the edge of the paper from the curved line you just drew. It needs to be the same length as your new side seam is. Make several marks for the hem, moving along the curve every couple inches and angling your line more and more each time to match the angle of the side seam. Connect the dots along the hem to make a curved line. Yay, you’re done the body of the shirt!

Making the arm pattern piece

Step 8 – Copy your arm piece onto paper, adding in the seam and hem allowance. You don’t need a seam allowance along the fold. I was a bit confused about the curve in my seam and made it a bit too big at first. I think it was just stretched out where the arm was sewn to the opening. When I compared the patterns for the arm piece to the arm opening, I could see it was too large and made it smaller.

Now cut out your pattern pieces and grab your fabric!

Cutting the fabric

Step 9 – Fold your fabric along the grainline. My fabric was wide enough that I could fold it twice and just cut each pattern piece once. The front and back are the same, except you need to make the neck opening lower in the front. Make sure to mark the centers of your neck opening on the front and back by cutting a 1/4″ notch (slit) into them, as well as the center top of your sleeves.

Assembling the maternity top

Step 10 – Clip or pin your side seams and shoulder seams together, right sides together.

Step 11 – Sew with a serger, or if you don’t have a serger, follow this method:

Sewing jersey without a serger

It will be easier if you make all of your seam allowances only 1/4 inch rather than 1/2. Otherwise you will have to trim your seam allowances after sewing.

Practice on some of the scraps from this project before actually sewing your top!

First, zigzag along the very edge of your seam (I use stich length 2.5, width 5). This isn’t completely necessary, but it will make for neater and stronger seams.

Next, sew the same seam with a straight stitch (1/4 inch from the edge). If your fabric has spandex and is very stretchy, then stretch it slightly as you sew. You don’t want your stitches to have way less stretch than your garment and break.

Or, if your machine has the stretch stitch that looks like a lightning bolt you can use that. No need to stretch the fabric as you go.

Moving on!

Step 12 – Sew your arms closed along the long edges.

Step 13 – Now we can attach the arms to the body. You will put your shirt inside out, arms right side out. Stick the arms inside the shirt (right sides will be facing) and pin or clip with underarm seams matching, and sleeve notch/shoulder seam matching. Sew with the sleeve facing up and the body of the shirt underneath (this is just easiest for maneuvering around a small opening).

Try it on to see what you think.

Step 14 – At this point I adjusted the hem length, sleeve length, and shape of the neck opening. Be aware of your hem allowances, but your collar will basically sit in the same place once you add your binding. Do any cutting with the shirt inside out, as it will lay flatter.

Preparing the neck binding

Step 15 – Measure the circumference of your neck opening by lining up your measuring tape with the stitching line (1/2 inch in from the edge) and working your way all around. Multiply this number by .85 and add 1 inch for hem allowance. (My circumference was 23 1/4 inches, so this is my math: 23.25 x 0.85 = 19.76 + 1 = 20.76, so 20 3/4 inches). This will be your neck binding length. The width will be 2 inches.

Step 16 – Cut it out. The length needs to be the most stretchy part, seeing as we obviously want this to stretch around our heads.

Step 17 – Now fold in half lengthwise, with wrong sides facing, and iron.

Step 18 – Open up your piece and line up the short edges, right sides together, and sew. Trim the seam allowance down to 1/4 inch. You will now have a circle. Next fold it back the way it was ironed and cut notches to mark the center and quarter points (the quarter points are helpful, but they won’t actually be lining up with any seams).

Sewing the neck binding to the maternity top

Step 19 – Turn your shirt inside out if it’s not already. Pin or clip the binding to the neck opening, with the seam and center back notch matching, and the front notches matching. Evenly distribute the binding. You will need to stretch it a little. The quarter point notches will not match the shoulder seams, but you can use them to make sure that both sides are even (mine were about 1/2 inch away from the shoulder seams). Sew. It will be easiest to sew with the binding on the bottom, shirt on top. Iron.

Hemming your maternity top

Step 20 – Iron your hems 3/4 inches to the wrong side. Sew on the right side (facing up). You will want to use a twin needle or stretch stitch like zigzag. When hemming the sleeves, it helps to turn the shirt inside out, then hem with the right side facing up. Give everything a good iron.

And your flowy maternity top is all done!

Would you try making this maternity top? I’d love to see your finished product if you do. Thanks for following along and be sure to let me know if you have any questions!