This guide will help you to understand the different kinds of bias binding to use for clothing and how to make your own without any special supplies.
What is bias binding?
Bias binding, also known as bias tape, is a strip of fabric that is cut on the bias (diagonal) of woven fabric, which gives it stretch and flex. Depending on the kind, it has slightly different uses, but the main gist is that it’s used to help finish raw, curved edges.
How to know which kind of bias binding to use
There are 3 primary kinds of bias binding: single fold, double fold, and half fold/French method.
If you are following a pattern, it will tell you which kind of binding to use. Or if you’re doing your own thing, you can decide which method will work best for your project.
Use single fold and half fold for necklines and armholes when you don’t want the binding to be seen from the right side of the garment.
Use double fold on necklines and armholes when you do want the binding to be seen from the right side.
If you are wanting to make an elastic casing on a curved edge, or even just to hem a curved edge, you can use single fold bias binding.
These are just some of the most common ways to use bias binding. Once you’re familiar with making and sewing bias binding, you’ll realize tons more ways you can use it!
Why make your own bias binding?
You can buy single fold and double fold bias binding in any sewing store or online, and they’re quite cheap. So, why should you make your own? The two main reasons are: you can get a perfect match to your garment, and homemade bias binding has a lot more stretch. Most store bought versions are partly or completely polyester, so if you’re big on natural fibers, that’s another reason. Or maybe you want to use the French method of binding, which stores don’t sell.
But before we get started: Why is bias binding so confusing?
Do you find bias binding super confusing, whether that’s buying some, or making your own? What I’ve realized when it comes to bias binding, is that there really aren’t many rules. Which is fine, but it can make for some confusion.
Sizes of bias binding
First, there’s the fact that you’re not even sure what the size is referring to. The size of store bought bias binding (usually called bias tape in it’s commercial form) refers to the finished width that will be seen from one side once the binding is sewn on. So, the unfolded width would be wider. That’s also why, if you’re looking at making your own, the width you need to cut doesn’t match up with the size of binding that you’re supposed to use.
Then there’s the fact that some patterns will have the bias binding size in metric, but maybe you use imperial measurements, or vice versa.
Bias tape maker sizes
If you use a bias tape maker, the size will match up to single fold bias tape. But if you want to make double fold bias tape, you would buy a bias tape maker with a size that seems twice as big. This is because, after using the bias tape maker, you still fold the bias tape in half again and iron without it.
Different widths for the same size
Then there’s the fact that, whether it’s store bought or homemade, the same sizes can actually be made from different widths of fabric! Some manufactures or tutorials will have the folds go all the way to the center, whereas some will have the folds stop short of the center. Some double fold varieties are folded with the underside a little wider, some aren’t. I usually make the folds go to the center evenly, so that’s what I’ll be showing you.
No mention of seam allowance
Patterns also often don’t say what the seam allowance is when sewing on bias binding, only to stitch in the fold. But different brands or homemade versions have different fold widths, so what do you do? Well, don’t worry about it. The truth is, 1/8 inch or a little more won’t make that big of a difference. Once you’re more familiar with making and using bias binding, you can also adjust patterns and your method to suit your preferences.
So, don’t despair. It’s not just you, and whatever you do, it will turn out ok!
The Ultimate Bias Tape Guide
It can be cumbersome to always have to google the conversions and widths you need to cut, so I made this handy printable chart comparing imperial and metric sizes, the bias tape maker size if you want to use one, and the width to cut for making your own. You can grab a free printable version here!
Supplies and materials
- Sewing machine
- Woven fabric with a plain weave, such as linen, quilting cotton, poplin, old sheets, etc
- Matching thread
- Scissors
- Rotary cutter, mat, and ruler (optional but very nice!)
- Iron and ironing board
A note about using a bias tape maker
To be honest, I don’t use them! I’m just not convinced they make it that much easier, or that they would work well for the fabrics I use (mostly linen). But because I know some people love them, I included them in my bias tape guide. If you do want to use one, this Youtube video is quick and easy to understand.
In researching for this post, I did find this cute little method with pins in the ironing board and gave it a try. When it worked it was pretty fun, but I did have to keep adjusting, which definitely made it take longer than with just the iron. I think it would work great on some fabrics though, so give it a try if you want to! Just start off a short section with the iron, then pin over the ironed part of the strip, and pull through, ironing as it comes out.
Determining the length of bias binding you will need
If your pattern doesn’t tell you the length of bias binding you need, measure the stitching line of the section that you will be adding it to, and add 1 inch just to be sure. This is never exact, seeing as it can stretch easily and will be trimmed after being sewn.
Cutting strips of binding on the bias
You will be cutting strips diagonally, on the “true bias.” This means it will be a line that is 45 degrees from the selvedge. You can cut either this way:
Or for longer strips, this way:
You can also use the shorter strips to make longer strips. Place the strips right sides together, making a right angle. Mark and stitch the diagonal line, trim the seam allowance to 1/4 inch, then press the seam flat and iron.
The widths you need to cut will vary depending on the kind of bias binding, and are shown below.
How to make single fold bias binding
Width to cut: Size (finished width that will be seen) x 2
Fold and iron long edges to center.
How to make double fold bias binding
Width to cut: Size (finished width that will be seen from one side) x 4
Fold and iron long edges to the center, then fold and iron in half again.
Another option, which can help with catching the underside when topstitching, is to make the strip 1/8 inch wider than usual for the size.
Then, fold both edges in so that there is a 1/8 inch gap in the center and iron. Then fold and iron again, with the top half 1/8 inch narrower than the bottom half.
How to make half fold bias binding/French method
This kind of binding is not as well known as single fold and double fold, but it’s so likeable and easy! The only con is that it can be a bit bulky.
Width to cut: Finished width x 2 + seam allowance x 2.
Iron in half lengthwise. I didn’t get a solo picture of this one, but it’s the far right one. And that’s it for half fold bias binding!
How to make bias binding my way
Ok, I don’t actually think this is unique to me, because it’s pretty much just a less official version of single fold, so I’m sure other people do it. I think I started doing this because I misunderstood the first pattern I ever used with bias binding!
Width to cut: Finished width x 2 + seam allowance. (I always cut mine at 1 1/4 inches, for a finished width of 3/8 inch and seam allowance of 1/2 inch)
No ironing, yay! There’s really nothing to see here, it’s just a strip of bias at this point.
Head over to the next blog post to learn how to sew bias binding on clothing
Now obviously you need to know how to actually sew with these bias binding strips! Here is the follow up blog post on how to sew bias binding on clothing. Thanks for following along so far!
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